The nice thing about raising chickens is that you need very little to get started. The majority of the expense is in the coop and run. Most of the other things that chickens require, might be something you already have at home that can be re-purposed.

There are so many products out on the market nowadays that it can be hard to figure out what a newbie chicken keeper really needs. Here is a generous list of things you might consider having on hand at your homestead to make chicken keeping a little more convenient. By no means do you need all of this, but for people who have never raised chickens, it is my hope that this list can give you an idea of what the future might hold for you and your flock, and give you some ideas for what your flock might require.

This list breaks down what chickens need at different age levels, and a few other ideas for egg storage, clothing and protection for you. It also lists a few things to keep your coop clean.

 

Sharing equipment, buying used and cleaning it properly

There are good things and bad things about buying used equipment or sharing poultry equipment. The good things are that you save money, practice recycling and can help out a friend in need and vice versa. The problem is that when you share equipment you could also be sharing potential diseases and parasites.

If you plan to use used equipment with your flock, be sure to sanitize it properly. Remove all dirt by washing in hot soapy water and a good glug of bleach. Get in all crevasses. Use steel wool or sandpaper on metal objects. Especially around rusted areas that might hold bacteria in the pitted crevasses. Dry objects in the sun for additional sanitation.

 

Hatching
If you plan to hatch out your first chicks, you’re in for a real treat! There are few things more amazing to witness. But you’ll need some equipment to get you started.

Incubator: There are several incubator designs on the market, and you can even make your own. My experience has been that you get what you pay for. I’ve purchased the inexpensive Styrofoam models and have had little success. Our Incubator of choice is the Brinsea Mini Advanced. It is truly fool proof and is great for first time hatchings.

 

 

 

 

 

Candling: Candling your eggs allows you to see which eggs are progressing and which might be dead or infertile. It is recommended that you remove any eggs that are not going to hatch from your incubator. Dead eggs when kept in moist warm incubator temperatures can spoil and sometimes explode spreading rotted material on your vital eggs.

Candling can be as simple as using a flashlight in a dark closet, or to make things easier I recommend the OvaScope Egg Scope. 

 

Brooder
Once your chicks hatch you will need a place to keep them. A brooder is an area where chicks can be kept warm and safe. You will need:

Container: A brooder can be anything from a cardboard box to a large Rubbermaid container. It must be large enough to fit growing chicks. It should be water resistant to protect floors and draft free.

Chick waterer: It’s important to use a waterer that is designed especially for chicks. This prevents drowning and minimizes water spillage. Water should be changed daily and raised as the chicks get taller to avoid soiling and walking in the water. If you have a lot of chicks buy a size appropriate waterer and keep it out of the brooder heating element.

Food dish: Any dish can be used to feed chicks so long as it’s low enough for them to reach. Chicks should be provided with a 20% protein starter feed at all times. The feeders designed for chicks prevent waste because the small access holes limit scratching and spreading the feed. The gravity feed also provides a constant source of food without having to fill the dish several times a day.

Heat lamp: You will need a heat source to keep your chicks warm. One of the cheapest ways is to provide a heat light bulb and the hood attachment. Red bulbs help reduce picking because chickens are attracted to the color red. If all the light is red, they can’t pick one red thing out from another like a scab from a chick mate.

You can also provide a dome heating element like the Eco Glo Chick Brooder, which is very safe, but a little more expensive.

Bedding: I am in love with pine pellets. They are super absorbent, and the pine oils eliminate odors. They also reduce dust due to scratching. Pine flake bedding and shredded paper bedding are other options. Cedar bedding is not recommended as is can cause lung and eye irritations.

Grit for chicks: Chicks need grit offered at all times to help them digest their food. Buy a grit designed for chicks as the size of the granules will be smaller and prevent choking.

 

Teenagers

I consider chicks who have feathered out to be teenagers. That time after chick-dom but before adulthood.

Separation Pen: If you are adding spring chicks to an existing adult flock, chances are you might need a separation pen. This pen will house teenage birds that are too big to be in the house in a brooder, but too young to join the adult flock. Sometimes this transition can be difficult as the new birds establish pecking order. It’s a good idea to have a backup space to keep birds separated.

Water: Teenagers can be transitioned to an adult waterer. The chance of drowning lessens as birds get older.

Food dish: They can start sharing the adult feeders at this point so long as they are positioned low enough for pint sized chickens. You might also find it necessary to purchase a larger feeder if this is your first flock, as adult chickens eat more than chicks.

After 6 weeks chicks can be fed a grower feed at 18% protien.

Grit: Teenagers can also start transitioning to the adult size grit when they are about ¾ the size of an adult.

Roosts: If the chicks are feathered out, they should have no problem roosting on adult roosts.

 

Adults

Coop: Adult chickens need a draft free, ventilated, predator proof coop that protects them from the elements. (For more read my post The Makings of a Great Coop, 7 Things to Get You Started)

Water dish: There are about as many waterers on the market as there are chicken breeds. The reason for this is because chickens scratch and defecate in their waterer. It is an ongoing battle to keep chickens supplied with fresh, clean water.

There are many different types of waterers including

Metal Vaccumm types
Nipple water systems
Plastic waterers
and many more

My favorite type of waterer is a wide, shallow, rubber dish. It’s easy to fill, easy to dump out and easy to clean with a sponge.

Another thing to consider is a heating element for your waterer if you live in a climate that experiences freezing temperatures. Make sure your waterer will work with a heating element so you don’t have to purchase two.

 

 

 

 

Food: Layer feed for laying hens (16% protein), Grower feed for meat birds (18% protein)

Egg boxes: Egg boxes can be purchased ready made, or can be constructed at home from new or recycled equipment. Chickens need about 1 egg box for every 3 to 5 birds.

Calcium: Calcium is an important supplement for laying hens. This can be provided through oyster shell purchased at a feed store, or through ground egg shells.

Treats and scratch: We don’t purchase treats or scratch for our chickens because we free range them. But if you have an enclosed coop, your chickens will definitely appreciate the variety in their diet. Remember to offer these sparingly as too much can cause health problems.

 

Supplies for Meat Birds

If you are raising Meat birds and choose to process them your self, you will need a few things.

Funnel: A funnel is used to invert the bird after the head is removed to drain the blood.

Waste Bucket: To catch the blood and discarded feathers

Very sharp knife: To make an incision at the neck

Table covered in plastic: This helps with sanitary reasons

Pot used for dipping: We have a special pot that we only use for dipping chickens. It is a very large stock pot that will hold enough boiling water to fit a turkey. You dip the bird to release the feathers.

A place to boil water: We usually use a bon fire type set up.

Large cooler with ice for keeping birds fresh

Plucker: We’ve never used a plucker, we’ve always hand-plucked our birds, but if you have a lot to do then a plucker might be very helpful.

 

Cleaning Supplies

Cleaning spray: There are many cleaning sprays out on the market but I find that a combination of white vinegar and Peroxide clean most things well enough. I also use bleach occasionally, depending on the situation.

Wide shovel: A wide, flat shovel works wonderful for pine chip or pelleted bedding. It also works great for scooping up the last bits of straw if you use that as bedding.

Pitch fork: Works great for cleaning soiled straw bedding.

Hand trowel: For scraping feces off of roosts/egg boxes

Broom: For cleaning the last bits of soiled bedding before laying down a fresh layer. We keep a special broom for the coop and barn only.

 

Health
There are many things on the market to help keep your chickens healthy; supplements, first aid items, wormers and parasite preventers. The choice to stock up on these items is personal and has a lot to do with how you decide to raise your chickens. A few popular items are:

Veterycin Spray: This stuff is amazing. We use it on everybody here on the farm. It heals wounds extremely fast and can be used almost anywhere, on any animal, including eyes. It’s wonderful stuff!

Vaseline: A special Vaseline container saved just for the chickens is a handy item to have. It can help get rid of scaly leg mites, provide some protection against frostbite and sooth cracked heels.

Diatamaceous Earth: We don’t personally use Diatomaceous Earth because I’m still not sure how it affects the respiratory system if inhaled. But I know many people swear by it as a natural parasite killer and wormer.

 

For your own person
Egg basket: You don’t NEED a fancy egg basket, you can carry your eggs in any thing from a bucket to your shirt tails. But with all the adorable baskets on the market, it’s fun to have one in your stock.

Muck boots: Boots not only keep your feet dry and clean, but designating a special pair of boots to be worn in your coop alone helps with biosecurity and lessens the chance of spreading disease.

Mask: It’s always smart to wear a mask when cleaning your chicken coop. Dried feces can become airborne when shoveling. This is especially important if you have a walk-in coop.

Gloves: I’m not a glove person…they kinda drive me nuts but gloves are a good way to protect your hands while cleaning and handling your chickens. Chickens can scratch your hands and arms with their claws if you try to hold an untamed chicken. Keep gloves especially for chicken use, in the same way you would muck boots.

 

Eggs
Empty egg cartons: We’ve always recycled our egg carton and used them over and again. I wash the Styrofoam and plastic ones. If you plan on selling your eggs, some areas require that you use new cartons. These can be purchased at your local feed store, or on- line.

Egg cleaning supplies: There’s always much debate as to how to clean an egg, or if you should clean them at all. We do wash our eggs and we’ve had good luck with the Manna Pro Egg wash, or hot water and dawn dish soap with a scrubby sponge. White vinegar works well to remove stubborn stains.

Pen to mark the date: A wax pencil or Sharp-y work well for marking the date on egg shells. This ensures that eggs are always fresh.

Let me know if I forgot anything. By leaving a comment below or by visiting the Community Chickens Facebook Page.